Death Valley Is Aptly Named

Just completed 1.5 days in D.V., which was actually enough time for us--I'm not a desert rat by any stretch. I don't believe in astrology, either, but I kept thinking, as I had the heebie jeebies, that maybe there IS something to the fact that I was born a "Water Bearer." Of COURSE, an Aquarian's skin would crawl in a place so devoid of water and what we normally think of as "life"--no birds, never saw a lizard or any mammal, and only a few bugs.

This is an example of a scenic picnic spot.


While the wildflowers were in full bloom, they were just brave little soldiers standing tall along the roadside, mostly. No fields of flowers as we had at Red Rock Canyon a few days ago. A highlight: got to use a pay phone again--nice bit of nostalgia--as there was zip, zilch, nada reception (even with sat card for computer!)

The park grew on us eventually, but its vastness and barrenness were a surprise we had to work at overcoming. We entered the park from the west--very steep grades (up to 8%) for long pulls at a time. Our rig did really well, although I was happy that no one was behind us. We drove straight up to Scotty's Castle--definitely a must see. We like history (house built 1926-1931) and architecture (he spent $2 million back then!), so this was really neat. Favorite architectural features:
--venting from cool cavern underground provided natural A/C in the 1920s in the hottest place on Earth. Cool.
--opposite the grand fireplace (not Rosebud/Hearst Castle scale, but close) was a waterfall feature to provide soothing water sound and humidity in this arid place. From a suggestion by Frank Lloyd Wright (who didn't get the job). Also, the details in the dozens of kinds of Spanish tile, the cast light fixtures (dragons!), the wood-carved beds and day beds with built-in lighting--all made specifically by hand as one of a kinds for this house. Cool.





Spent the rest of day seeing the other must-sees, including the big Kahuna, Badwater, the lowest point in North America. Look closely at the cliff above the parking lot—that is the "sea level" sign. Creepy!






We also took a winding, dipping, one-way road with a length restriction of 25’ (and yes, our 24.5' vehicle fit fine--sort of like riding a roller coaster with all the dips). Here's the start of Artist Drive: Beautiful. Through the windshield it’s even pretty….



We also stopped to see the pupfish--one of the strangest and rarest fish in the world, which are out right now for a few weeks. They survive in water that is 3-4 times more saline than the ocean and at temps over 110 degrees F. They’re called pupfish because of the way that they seem to play and wiggle in the sand. (They’re just busy mating, which you would be too if your window of survival is only a few weeks.)






We overnighted at the primitive Sunset Campground (all other campgrounds were full—we suspect spring break and wildflower season). No trees, no water, no electricity. Just an enormous sky full of stars, which I got to fully appreciate at 4:30AM when Nick decided it was time to go outside. The Milky Way felt like it was only a moon’s distance away. Met and had cocktails sitting outside with our neighbors—Sandy and Sandy from Seattle. Here’s sunset in the parking lot. (Yes, parking lot, rather than “campground” in my book, but it worked just fine. We had intended to stay 2 days, but one was enough, thank you.)




The next day we took a first-thing-in-the-morning (beating all the tour buses) hike up Golden Canyon. They say it's an easy hike, but I'd say it was a tad more than that. Good exercise. And since it was intended as exercise, I didn’t bring the camera.

Rounded out the morning at Zabriskie Point (which you're supposed to go to at sunrise or sunset, but we didn't make it). Here’s a picture from Zabriskie Point of the wall of Golden Canyon; we were inside it on the far side. (The yellow rocks in the photo are not surprisingly Golden Canyon and the red rocks are called—again, these folks aren’t terribly imaginative—Red Cathedral.



And there’s a peak of the Sierra (highest point in contiguous U.S.) looming over the lowest point.


Headed south out of the park through Death Valley Junction. VERRRY windy (45 mph). Our first white-knuckle experience driving over the mountains to Nevada—big wind “punches” from the side, a fierce headwind as we pulled up hill, and dust storms. But we made it just fine, even if the driver had lost feeling in her fingers. It’s the adventure that counts.

Stopped for the day at NOON, for heaven’s sake. The wind won’t stop. We’re in a lovely, actually, oasis in Pahrump, NV—Terrible’s Lakeside Casino. Palm trees, grass (Grass! cried Nick), water, full hookups, and we can walk to dinner. The cook needs a reprieve. We’ve eaten healthily in our RV for 11 of last 12 meals; time for a break.

More about the casino RV park adventure. Will we cave and head into the casino?

The Eastern Sierra Rocks!

We are into the 3rd day of our latest adventure, traveling how we like to--stopping wherever and whenever we want, not in a hurry, prepared to be surprised and amazed. This was a trip that Lisa planned (Julie usually takes the lead) and we learned that it's best to plan trips together.

As we were heading to find a campground yesterday after a long day, Julie was navigating and decided to read aloud the AAA Campbook entry, which noted this inconvenient little factoid: 6,000 feet! (And it's March and was cold at 3700 feet where we were... brrrr.) So, after we finished laughing, doing a U-turn, and agreeing that joint planning is a good idea, we found a delicious little county park that had just a handful of campers (tent and RV) along a wonderful slim little lake (created by an 8.0 earthquake in 1872), with the most amazing birds.

Used last night as an opportunity to test our house batteries. When we parked for the evening, they were fully charged from driving all day at 13.9. We used very little electricity (1/2 hour of running generator, though, to power microwave to defrost and cook things) to run a little iPod over the house speakers, a few lights for a friendly game of gin rummy, and some Navy showers this AM. After 17 hours, the battery was at the level folks say to not let it fall below (12.54). We actually noted every appliance and times run (didn't calculate amp hours; that hurts my brain). So, we have not-so-great batteries, which we sort of knew, but have now "scientifically" confirmed. Justification for those solar panels we'd like to get.

Decided to stick around Lone Pine today and see the sights, which are actually rather amazing: Manzanar National Historic Site and the Lone Pine Movie History Museum (hundreds of westerns have been filmed here AND my favorite movie of last year Iron Man was filmed here, with the dry Eastern Sierra standing in for Afghanistan). Photos will follow. The Manzanar site is really just an interpretive center and then a drive around the ruins of the facility, but it's eerily moving. Reminded us of feeling the "ghosts" of the wagon train pioneers at Scottsbluff, NE. The interpretive center is extraordinarily well-done--an unflinching look at the national mistake that was forced internment (according to no less than Ronald Reagan), with some thought-provoking pieces about current Constitutional issues.

Tomorrow will bring the excitement of Death Valley--the temp was supposed to still be cool from the cold front that moved through, but it's heated back up to 90s, so we'll see how that goes (primitive camping only).

And now for the photos:

The Tehachapi Loop
According to the historical plaque, this is one of the 7 wonders of railroading--a circular loop to help trains climb this steep grade. A train of 85 cars will have its caboose right above the engine at one point. As we were trying to figure out how this all worked, a carful of trainspotters arrived and helped us understand why this is such a big deal. Apparently, this train line, built by Chinese immigrants in the late 1800s, was what helped LA grow quickly. 36 trains come through a day; unfortunately, we didn't see one.



I just love old signs.




Red Rock Canyon State Park
The desert was in full bloom--we counted 9 different kinds of wildflowers and were delighted to stand next to this amazing little hummingbird for what seemed like an eternity. What does he eat when there are no flowers blooming, or does he fly away somewhere? We saw lizards and stink bugs and butterflies, too. The desert was happenin'.

Here's the busy hummer:


And the groovy rock formations:


And a Joshua Tree at the northern end of its range:


Most of the wildflowers were white-cream-pale yellow-bright yellow, but this patch refused to blend in:


After our nature walk/hike--Lisa, Nick, and the Navion and the yellow "brick" road.


The view down US 395



Diaz Lake State Park at Sunset

Facing east toward the lake and the mountains we have to cross to enter Death Valley


Facing west across empty campground toward Sierra and Mt. Whitney (not shown here)




Manzanar National Historic Monument
Over 10,000 Japanese and Japanese American citizens were interned here from 1942 to 1945--a windswept, arid, dusty stretch of land far from the West Coast. These people kept their spirits up by publishing their own newspaper, tending gorgeous Japanese style gardens that they created from nothing, building themselves an auditorium/community center (the only building left standing), and even serving the war effort by making camouflage netting (citizens only, not the first-generation Japanese, if you can imagine). Very moving place. I have read so many children's books about this place as part of my old job. It's a whole different thing to be there.



The cemetary and the grave of a child. The ranger told us that busloads of tourists from Japan (and around the U.S.) come to the site and leave coins as offerings.





Julie patiently waits for Lisa, who is engaged in a spirited discussion with the ranger. (Nick and I had to get out of the incessant wind.)


The barbed wire


Downtown Lone Pine
We went to a most marvelous movie history museum today and poked around this charming little town, population 1300 or so. What a history it has. We somehow missed driving on "Movie Road" today, so we decided to get up tomorrow at sunrise to go shoot some pix. This area has had literally hundreds of westerns filmed here, from silent movies with Fatty Arbuckle to Lone Ranger to John Wayne. The mountain backdrop has stood in for India, Afghanistan, Europe.

But I like the signs ;-)

Fixin' to Road Trip to Death Valley

We feel like such she-rahs. We figured out how to check the tires with the rear dual tires, added the requested 1 quart of oil (very proud for figuring out how to check it in the first place), checked and charged the batteries, covered the heating vents (to keep out the dog hair), affixed screen material to the outside storage area that vents directly into the coach (just in case we end up back in North Dakota mosquito hell), fixed the faulty bathroom door latch, made little signs to hang up to remind us of stuff to do or undo (after the Napa trip when Julie cracked some wood trim when she forgot to remove the slide-out lock).... So many things we've done to our RV--it's time to GO!

We're heading out this weekend to Death Valley--a trip that Lisa has planned this time. A lot of boondocking--very primitive camping in the desert--mixed in with campgrounds with hookups. Can't wait.

Sedona Spa Trip

We drove from home to Phoenix in a day (11-12 hours) and then the next morning picked up Lisa's parents at Sky Harbor. We then whisked them off to another world--Sedona AND their first spa experience. We think they liked it ;-) For this trip--taken in the car so that we could transport the 4 of us--we will have a photo show, rather than a text reflection. I just can't seem to gin up writing AFTER the fact. When I'm in the RV, camped safely for the night, I feel the writing urge. But outside my comfy RV dinette writing spot? Not so much. Good thing we're going on a 2-3 month trek this spring/summer! Lots o' writing....

Without further ado....

Montezuma's Castle National Monument



Mii Amo Spa at Enchantment
Just lovely.



Enchantment Resort in Sedona



The Crawley Clan in a Sedona Vortex



Bluebird of Happiness at the Chapel of the Holy Cross? , courtesy of Dad Crawley



View from Chapel of the Holy Cross




Black Rock Canyon Cafe

A roadfood recommendation from a shopkeeper for its "famous pies"



The most popular pie: Jack Daniels Pecan Pie a la mode
(Good, but not Roadfood.com worthy, I didn't think. Others were more favorably impressed with the rhubarb, cherry, and peach pies!)




The Viceroy in Palm Springs

Coolest fireplace--gas jets come out of broken glass pieces. Charming 1930s place. After the valet takes your car, you are greeted at reception with a glass of champagne. Now that's class. And our upgraded room cost but $79....



Joshua Tree National Park...in the Jag. Sigh. Just not quite right.

View from highest point in park (5000+ feet) to smog blowing into Coachella Valley from LA basin

Home Sweet Home, A Day Early

Left lovely Bodega in the warm sunshine this morning. Drove gorgeous 2-lane roads through lush, green dairy country. Tiny newborn lambs and goats to smile at along the way. Stopped in Petaluma and did a walking tour of some of their well-preserved 19th century buildings. Then plowed south, through the thickening clouds, over the Golden Gate Bridge (fun!), through town, and on home as the day got darker and darker. Bracing for a "robust winter storm" as the weather advisory called it. We decided we shouldn't risk staying ocean-front at Half Moon Bay with projected 20-40mph winds and 1-3 inches of rain coming. We did OK early in the week in hail and pouring rain and just didn't want to deal with it again. Muddy paws are no fun.

Had a very nice time at the state park boondocking, even though we almost drained our fresh water and battery very quickly. (We have a lot to learn in re: conservation tricks.) This morning's excitement was two-fold. Julie was cooking breakfast while Lisa showered. Julie decided to open the screen door and some windows because the bacon was heating up. Just as I opened the door, the smoke alarm went off, causing Nick to bolt out of the coach. I had to choose: chase scared dog or stop the alarm. I chased the dog. Poor sopping wet Lisa is left to wonder why the cooking food and alarm were abandoned.... All turned out fine, after a few moments, and our neighbors said they didn't even hear it, when I apologized later for the wake-up call. (They had their own kitchen tragedy to deal with. Both of us were on our maiden voyages. They blew up their coffee pot all over their trailer....)

So, we're back, unpacked, ready to clean the coach. She's filled with diesel and propane for our next trip in March, which will be Southern California: Joshua Tree National Park, Death Valley National Park, Kings Canyon/Sequoia National Park (weather permitting), et al. Gotta use our National Parks pass some more before it expires in May ;-)

Boondocking in Bodega Dunes

To conserve on power (we are boondocking--no electricity or water-- for next 3 days!), posts will be brief....

Today was deeeeelightful. Sunny 65-70 degrees. Traveled 2-lane, wildflower-lined roads back down through Napa Valley to Napa proper. Stopped at Oxbow Public Market (like the Ferry Building in S.F.)--all organic, artisanal farmers and producers of cheese, wine, chocolate, beef, seafood, etc., etc. Picked up provisions for next 3 days in state parks. Now, that's roughing it.

Then headed west and back up Sonoma Valley, with all the wild mustard blooming amid the still-dormant trees and vines, to Santa Rosa and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, completed in 2002, and a real joy to visit. A few photos of the enormous art (the black and white mosaic is made of 10 years worth of strips!):


Lunch was at another Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives recommended place: Willie Bird's. Famous for its turkey, and boy was it delicious. Turkey club had turkey ham, turkey bacon, and thick, sliced turkey on whole wheat. Mama Bird was turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce on whole wheat. Yum. Leftover club for breakfast tomorrow, we think...

Then we drove due west over winding roads to Bodega Beach and the Sonoma Coast State Park. Gorgeous, virtually empty. The sun is setting now, the charcoal is firing up, the wine is chilling, and it's just smells great here--green-green new grass from all that rain + fresh beach smell. Throw in the sound of the foghorn and you've got a nice spot.

We have been watching DVDs (and even a movie from Netflix over the Internet) this week. Love our big TV, but in order to conserve power, I think it's reading/card playing time!

Not sure what we'll do tomorrow, as we're here 2 nights, but we'll figure it out. A very long walk may be in order, although dogs aren't allowed on the dunes here ;-(

Now THIS is what I'm talkin' about...

The rain finally stopped at 4:30 AM this morning, hallelujah! We're watching the sun set behind the mountains now, after a lovely day doing everything we like to do:
--leisurely departure in the morning (left by 9AM)
--shopping trip to a Sacto-area Camping World that was on our route (who knew how excited one could get about various and sundry RV accessories?)
--gorgeous drive up Napa Valley to our lunch destination, Taylor's Automatic Refresher, which we'd seen reviewed on TV and which TOTALLY lived up to its reputation as the fanciest hamburger ever: Niman Ranch-raised beef (yum), organic everything else. You've never seen a wine list like THIS at a drive-in burger joint (well, you've probably never seen ANY wine list at a burger joint): read the menu here
--delicious and fascinating wine-tasting session
--wonderful campground experience

Now to explain the details. Here's our lunch destination's sign (with one of the gajillion wineries in the background):



Even cooler is going to Taylor's in an RV. There is only outdoor seating--picnic-style or in your car. Very chilly today and only a few tables had heat lamps over them. So, we got our order to go and enjoyed it inside the RV, where we had our own ketchup ;-) When the food is SO good, I forget to take pictures. Best patty melt ever.



But that's not all the wondrousness of the day. We kept driving up the Valley, past every famous winery you can think of, to our 1:30 appointment at Schramsberg. OMG. The best champagne (and most beautiful caves). We tasted the same champagnes that have been served by every U.S. president since Nixon. Nixon actually was the guy who made them famous, by taking 13 cases over to China with him. Since then, the Carters, Fords, Reagans, Bushes (both of 'em), Clintons, and we hear Obamas (but the photos weren't up yet) serve this yummy, tiny-bubbled nectar of the gods to their guests (like Queen Elizabeth). We were the only 2 people on the tour--one of the joys of traveling both off-season and in the middle of the week. What fun. We bought one champagne and one amazingly tasty (and pricey) Cab. Not sure what occasion will call for the opening of either, but we had to take one of each home. If you're intrigued,
check this out.

Then to cap off the day, we checked into our online-reserved campground. We were, at 3:30PM, the only ones here ;-) with no one in the office. A bit creepy. But now (at 6PM) there are 4 of us here, which feels better. We parked and took Nick out (he has serious cabin fever with all the rain) and walked into Calistoga to purchase a bottle of wine for dinner. We are in Napa, after all, and must have something local....

Nice hour-long walk, which we all needed and enjoyed. This is the first campground we've stayed at where we could walk to attractions. Love having another "first."